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Labret Piercing Guide

“Labret” means two things in piercing. It is a piercing placement — the classic stud below the bottom lip — and it is a style of jewellery: the flat back stud that piercers now fit in everything from lips to tragus, helix and conch piercings. This guide covers both: the placements, what getting pierced involves, healing and downsizing, sizing, and how to pick the right jewellery. When you are ready to shop, the full range is in our labret studs category.

Types of labret and lip piercings

  • Centre labret — the original: a single stud centred below the bottom lip.
  • Side labret — the same piercing worn off-centre; currently the most popular lip placement.
  • Philtrum (Medusa) — centred in the groove above the upper lip; usually worn with a small flat back stud.
  • Monroe — offset above the upper lip, echoing a beauty spot.
  • Vertical labret — passes vertically through the edge of the bottom lip, with both ends visible. Note: this one wears a small curved barbell, not a flat back stud.
  • Paired placements — symmetrical side labrets (often called snake bites) are simply two labret piercings planned together.

Labret studs beyond the lip

Most labret studs sold today never go near a lip. Because the disc sits flush against the skin, there is no bar poking the back of your ear while you sleep, wear headphones or hold a phone — which is why piercers fit flat backs as standard in tragus, helix, forward helix, conch and lobe piercings. If you have ever been handed a “labret” for an ear piercing, that is why.

What to expect when you get pierced

Go to a professional studio. Lip and cartilage piercings should be done with a sterile, single-use needle — not a gun — and a good piercer will check your anatomy, mark the spot with you, and talk you through aftercare before starting. The piercing itself is quick; most people describe a short, sharp pinch followed by warmth and swelling over the next few days.

Expect the first jewellery to look deliberately long. Piercers fit a longer bar on purpose to leave room for swelling — it is temporary, and swapping it down later is part of the process, not an upsell.

Healing and downsizing

Everyone heals at their own pace, but as a rule of thumb — and matching the routine in our Piercing Aftercare Guide:

  • Lip and philtrum placements: follow the twice-daily cleaning routine for around 6–8 weeks, cleaning inside and outside the mouth separately, and rinse or spray inside after eating, drinking or smoking in that period.
  • Downsizing: the long initial bar usually comes down to a shorter one after roughly 2–4 weeks, once swelling settles. Do not skip this — an oversized bar left in place is the main cause of tooth and gum irritation from lip piercings.
  • Ear cartilage placements (tragus, helix, conch): slower to settle — keep the fitted length until your piercer confirms it is ready to change. Most piercings settle within 1–6 months; cartilage often sits at the far end of that range.
  • While healing: clean hands only, no rotating the jewellery, no harsh chemicals (no Dettol, alcohol or antiseptic creams), and go easy on alcohol and smoking for the first couple of months with oral placements.

Labret sizing

PlacementCommon gaugeNotes
Lip / side labret16G (1.2mm), sometimes 14GFitted long at first, downsized after swelling
Philtrum / Monroe16GSmall discs and tops suit these placements
Tragus / helix / conch16G, some studios 18GSnug 6–8mm posts are typical once healed
Vertical labret16G or 14G curved barbellDifferent jewellery — not a flat back stud

Gauge is the thickness of the post; length is the wearable section between disc and top. The safest way to buy is to match jewellery you already wear comfortably — our Size & Gauge Guide shows exactly how to measure it.

Choosing labret jewellery

Fitting: most of our labrets are internally threaded — the thread is on the removable top, so only smooth metal passes through the piercing. The other modern option is threadless (push-fit), where the top holds by pin tension and swaps in seconds; one threadless post can carry a whole rotation of tops.

Materials: titanium is the light, effectively nickel-free choice piercers recommend for sensitive skin; 316L surgical steel is the everyday standard; solid 14k gold and gold PVD-coated steel cover the gold looks at two price points; and flexible bioflex makes a near-invisible retainer. The Materials Guide compares them in detail.

Hiding it: once your piercer confirms the piercing can handle a jewellery change, a clear bioflex labret keeps the hole open while staying close to invisible for work, sport or dental visits.

Labret piercing FAQs

Do labret piercings hurt?

Less than most people expect — a quick, sharp pinch, then a few days of swelling and tenderness. Lip placements swell more than ear placements; cold drinks and soft food help in the first day or two.

How long before I can change the jewellery myself?

The initial bar is usually downsized by your piercer after roughly 2–4 weeks. Beyond that, wait until the piercing has settled — commonly 6–8 weeks of the care routine for lip placements, and longer for cartilage — and have your piercer do the first change if you are unsure.

Will a labret piercing damage my teeth or gums?

The main culprit is an oversized initial bar left in too long, or playing with the jewellery. Downsizing on schedule, wearing a flat disc against the gum line, and leaving it alone keeps the risk low — and if you notice rubbing, see your piercer promptly.

What jewellery goes in a labret piercing?

A flat back labret stud, usually 16G, in your choice of internally threaded or threadless fitting. The one exception is the vertical labret, which wears a small curved barbell instead.

Can I hide a labret piercing for work?

Once the piercing can tolerate jewellery changes, a clear bioflex retainer is the standard answer — flexible, low-profile and close to invisible at conversation distance.

Will it leave a scar if I retire it?

Usually a small dot that fades considerably over time, especially if the piercing was healthy when you removed the jewellery. Piercings worn for many years, or stretched ones, leave more of a mark.

Ready to shop? Browse labret studs and flat back earrings or mix-and-match tops in the threadless range — free shipping Australia-wide on orders over $60.